January 22, 2014 at 1:29 a.m.
Chef George Muhlbacher has combined the flavours of Bermuda in his winter menu while making the most of seasonal produce.
There are influences from The Azores, from the Caribbean, Britain, America and, of course, Bermuda herself.
My guest and I decided to try a few of the shared options to start with.
The Devilled Eggs ($8) were great, I can see why they are such popular choice at Heritage Court. They have a creamy whipped yolk accompanied by a delicate garnish on a bed of crispy potato straws. Although the menu said ‘trio of garnishes’ I was served only the red pepper and the olive. To be honest the garnish is so small you would barely miss it if it wasn’t there.
I can’t get enough lamb with its fragrant, tender meat so I opted for the Lamb Lollipops with Pepita (pumpkin seed) Crust and Mint Chimichurri ($18). The meat was beautifully moist with a moreish buttery glaze and good crunch of pepita to top it off. The mint chimichurri sauce was interesting — it’s neither like the vinegary, leafy British mint sauce nor the sweeter jelly preferred in The States — it was much more subtle than either with an almost creamy consistency and lemony zing. A great little three-piece lunchtime taster.
Also for sharing was the Mac ‘n’ Cheese ($12) and the Sausage Rolls ($8).
The mac ‘n’ cheese was as good as any mac ‘n’ cheese and a good sized portion. Chef Muhlbacher was visibly disappointed that my guest, a vegetarian, asked for hers without the Apple Wood Smoked Bacon. “It’s the bacon that makes it!” he lamented. Oh well — as far as mac ‘n’ cheese goes it was good — nice and saucy with a tasty aged cheddar topping — but now I’m really curious to taste the real deal...
The sausage rolls came in a lovely light flaky pastry and tasted great. I do prefer sausage rolls where the meat melts into the pastry — the pork in these was rolled into a solid sausage shape. They went really well with the grainy mustard aioli — a good choice for a winter menu.
Also new to the menu is the Winter Salad ($10 or $18) combining seasonal local root vegetables — beets and squash — with apples, candied walnuts and a nice warming portion of fried goats cheese. The dish has a great combination of woody flavours — I would have liked a slightly bigger portion of fried goats cheese with the dish.
On to the Pan Roasted Salmon ($24) — this was quite a summery dish for a winter menu on its bed of lightly cooked pumpkin noodles and fresh mango salsa. It was beautifully presented and combined some of my favourite tangy and sweet flavours.
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