Food Review: Mad Hatter’s Lemon Sole is good for the soul

One of the reasons I like Mad Hatters is that they serve top quality nosh but keep an informal, friendly atmosphere. 

A busy restaurant is always a good sign and because I‘d left my booking until the last minute I was advised to come in after the 12:30pm rush. Lunching with two girl friends, I decided to book at 1pm last Friday to make sure we had their full attention, and that we did. 

We all choose from the specials menu as they all sounded tempting, not least the Lemon Sole in a Butter Pernod Cilantro sauce topped with cooked cucumber. 

But first up, the starters included the Mushroom Consommé which is always a winner with me at Mad Hatters. It’s not too salty which is key — a jowl clenching burst of salt can so often ruin this dish. The thin strips of tri-colour pepper were fresh to the bite but they were cut long so were sort of awkward to eat — if you are going on a first date, this might be one to avoid. It could also have done with a bit more kick from the chilli — I like my heat.

The shrimp starter came in a silky beurre blanc and was probably the best appetiser we chose between us. The sauce is made with shallots, white wine and white vinegar, which were tempered nicely by the heavy cream and warm butter mix. It’s a good size so a nice little dish to share as a starter if you are not feeling too hungry. 

Out of the entrées, the Lemon Sole was the stand out dish — there was also a Beef Stroganoff with riced whipped potatoes as well as a rich Lamb dish with Kalamata Olive topped with Feta Cheese.

Again, the Sole came out in a kind of beurre blanc similar to that in the shrimp starter — it uses the same base deglazed with the slight citrus of cilantro and Pernod, of which there was only the slightest hint. The fish itself was subtly crisped to a light golden brown and, after the initial crisp, it just fell apart in your mouth. It’s a shame it’s only on the specials as I’d order it time and time again.

Onto the Lamb with Kalamata Olive — the thick sugary sauce is not for the faint hearted but perfect for lovers of devilishly tasty food. Cooked over three days and deglazed lovingly by chef Ben Jewett numerous times, it is sweet, sharp and peppery — the stock is a soy, balsamic vinegar, red wine reduction with brown sugar. The tender lamb came with a dollop of feta cheese on top, not to my liking but my guest loved the pairing. 

Finally, the Beef Stroganoff, it was the least popular on our table but still enjoyable, not least the creamy riced mash. The recipe was a variation of the traditional Russian version as so often is the case. Where, for instance, was my obligatory serving of sour cream? And where did the peppers and pickles come from? The taste was less mustardy and more salty with these ingredients and the texture of the tail pieces of beef — used from the trimmings of other dishes at the restaurants, not as drenched through as a stewing beef might have been. 

Finally, on to the dessert — the three of us fought over the chocolate bread pudding drizzled in a sticky Jack Daniels and sugar reduction. 

Overall, this was a great meal and the servers were as attentive was necessary.

Details: 22 Richmond Road, Bermuda Tel: 297-6231. Choice of two courses for $24 or three courses for $28 with a surcharge of $5 to $10 for specials.